"Quality First ,Credit First"

high five collector

by:Taian Lamination Film     2020-09-18
In this basic wearable device project, you will build a circuit that collects the high five.
The last circuit is a simple circuit that you can learn to build in my free wearable electronics course (
Digital input and digital output courses).
You need to: connect the circuit as shown in the figure.
Manual switch-
> Manual switch-2 pins-> ground (-)LED power (+)--
> Pin 3 led grounding (-)--> ground (-)
Download the sketch that comes with it and upload it to your motherboard.
The LED flashes twice and then continues to work.
This means that the sketch is loaded and running.
How does it work?
The switch listens when the sketch loads and runs to see if any switch is pressed.
Turn on the serial monitor watch switch to press.
Keep pressing your switch!
The LED will go out and a single press will be recorded in the software.
Press the switch four more times and the LED will light up, indicating that you have pressed it five times.
Press five more times and when you reach 10 it will go out and turn it back on.
This is high it collects
It records the number of times the button is pressed and lets you know what goal you have reached.
Turn on the switch to high-
Five tests out!
Create a variable to keep the number of times the switch is pressed, the current state of the switch (on/off)
One keeps the previous state of the switch.
Store the previous state because it compares to the current state later in the sketch.
This is where the previous state of the switch is compared to the current state. The !
= The character representation is not equal.
If the button status variable value (1 or 0)
Not equal to the last button state, check if it is low (0/pressed).
If low, increase the number of times the switch is pressed (high-fives)
And store it in the variable button counter.
The executed code block also prints the button to push the current value of the counter, so you can see how it goes. The modulo -
%, Divide one number by another and leave the remaining number.
Here is to divide the button counter variable value by five and ask if the remainder is equal to zero.
The remainder is equal to zero only when the value of the button counter is zero or the number that can be divisible by 5 (such as 5, 10, 25, etc.
If the button counter is divided by five equal to zero, the LED will be high and open.
If not equal to zero, the LED is low and remains off.
Try changing five to higher numbers to collect more high-fives.
When plugged into the computer via USB, the LilyPad board receives the power supply.
When the board is not connected to the computer, you can power it using a LiPo battery.
Unplug the USB cable from the board, grab your LiPo battery and plug it into the JST connector on the board.
Push the switch to ON to power the circuit board.
Your project is now mobile and can go anywhere!
To charge the LiPo battery, keep the Motherboard connected to the computer via USB and push the switch to CHG. Give a high-
5 times or 5 times, you can see the LED light on.
Take a photo of the switch working with the battery and upload it below!
After building and testing the final circuit with a sketch, it is ready to be transferred to the fabric.
To do this, the circuit needs to be disconnected and disassembled.
To know how to regroup the circuit together, it needs to be recorded.
There are three ways you can do this and I will give a brief introduction now: 1)
Draw a schematic diagram.
I found this to be an interesting process because learning how to read the schematic is like learning how to decode the secret information and read the map.
In the schematic diagram, each electrical component is represented by a graphical symbol.
Check out instructions on how to read the circuit diagram for an introduction to the schematic symbols.
The electronic symbol page on Wikipedia is also a good start. 2)
Create your own drawing.
Create your own chart using a pencil or computer.
Mark the pin number on the micro-controller as well as the power and ground for each component.
Draw the track and you have your own road map to rebuild your circuit. 3)Write it down.
For simple circuits, you can write each connection lineby-line.
For example: highfive switch --
> Pin 2 for LilyPadhigh-five switch --
> No matter what method you use, check the recording carefully to make sure you write the connection correctly.
Once you have recorded the circuit, you can safely remove the circuit from the crocodile lead.
Once all connections are disconnected, you will have four components: 1 x LiPo batter1 x LilyPad USB1 x sewable LED1 x manual switch. Next, we will build this.
The design parts are gloves and bracelets.
I have decided that it is a glove, so when I mention \"glove\" I mean the final item. :)
Fabric is the main substrate used in the manufacture of wearable electronics.
There can be two different forms of this fabric: 1)
Items cut and stitched together from the number of yards, usually using pattern 2)
You think they all have their own advantages and disadvantages.
In this project, you will create your own schema from scratch.
When prototyping, creating your own parts will give you more control and introduce you to the process of making custom accessories using fabric.
First, pick up the soft tape measure and make some measurements.
Write down the measurements of the three places stated above. 1)
Opposite Knuckles2)
The length of the back of the hand from the knuckles to the wrist
The perimeter final pattern of the wristband consists of 3 patterns: 1)Back of hand2)Wrist strap3)
The hand made switches with 1 and 2 were created using the measurements in the previous step.
In the introduction Switch lesson, you have created the third one.
Grab a fabric marker and a ruler and draft the two patterns: the back of the hand of this simple pattern, it is OK to draw it directly on the fabric.
You are welcome to make paper samples for future use.
Use a fabric marker to draw the three measurements you make on a piece of felt, as shown in the figure. Add .
25 per measurement \".
Remember, it\'s easier to cut off fabric than to add more.
Create a rectangle 1.
75 \"wide x wrist circumference.
Add 1 \"to the length measurement to create overlapping closure.
In future classes, the LiPo battery will be connected to the wristband, so please check that the LiPo battery meets the size before proceeding. Adjust the 1.
75 \"width, can be installed if necessary.
I have attached the final pattern of these two pieces.
Cut out the strap pattern for the back hand and wrist.
Nail them together, put them on your hands, and feel the size of the pieces.
The top of the ladder should cover your knuckles and the wristband should be able to wrap your wrist comfortably.
Trim the pieces back if they are too large.
If they end up too small, it\'s better to cut them off again with the increased length.
Fix the switch to the top of the ladder to loosen one side.
It\'s time to try it on!
Fix the switch strap on the hand and the bottom strap on the wrist.
The only strap you need to adjust is the wrist strap.
This means you need to turn on the switch comfortably because you can\'t adjust it later.
When the switch is fixed to get the correct fit, test it on the continuity setting with a multimeter.
As soon as it is fixed, you will most likely see some bumps or bent fabrics.
If this happens, please fix the excess fabric and pins.
If it\'s hard to find a friend to help you with a one-handed operation.
Grab the needle and thread as you are ready to stitch your connection.
Use the basting needle to connect the ladder and wrist strap.
Stitch the switch belt in place. Great job!
You have created and installed a custom pattern!
The last time I tried it, is the switch strap too loose? Is it too snug?
What is the length of the ladder?
Test the switch again with a multimeter to hear the beep when it is off.
Your final circuit works with the sketch and you have finished sewing the fabric pattern.
It\'s time to combine the two and put the circuit on the fabric.
List of components of Hi-
5 Collector: 1 x LilyPad USB1 x sewable LED1 x LiPo batter1 x soft switch is already embedded in mode, so you don\'t have to worry about placing it.
Plug the battery into the JST connector on the LilyPad USB.
Place the components at the top of the ladder to see how they relate to each other.
Take the time to determine where the components and micro-controllers will be.
Things to consider when placing components: 1)
Visualize your conductive path.
If possible, do not place components where they will create paths that cross each other. 2)
Leave a space for stitching around component 3)
Are there any polarized components?
Experiment according to the attached chart or location.
The marking tool is not permanent, so you can draw the position and circuit as you like!
Track around the battery, LilyPad USB, and LED using a loom pen.
Make a point through each hole of the LED and mark the ground (-)and power (+)side.
In my \"build connection module\" for my free wearable electronics class, you can learn to sew the snapshot on the back of the micro-controller so that it can be removed from the project later.
Now is the time for you to stitch the other half of these snapshots to your project.
You can do this before you draw the tracks, because you will connect the components to them.
Keep in mind that connecting components to snapshots is the same as connecting them directly to the micro controller pins.
See where the center of each buckle hits the fabric on pins 2, 3 and the ground (-)and make a dot.
Center each snap on the marker and stitch with regular lines.
Mark each capture with the corresponding pin so you know which one it is.
A hole in the ground is drawn from the switch (-)snap.
I tend to draw traces directly and create corners when I need to change direction.
You are free to use your ideas.
Draw the remaining connection: switch to the remaining side of the pin 2 power supply (+)
LED to the ground side of pin 3 (-)
LED grounding side (-)snap.
Note how the trajectory captured from the ground to the ground of the LED travels within the outline of the board.
The shortest distance between the two parts may be under the other part.
It doesn\'t matter as long as you don\'t create a short one.
If the exposed conductive trace is exposed to two exposed metal parts at the bottom of the LilyPad USB, this will result in a short circuit.
To prevent this from happening, just look under the components you want to track and check the exposed area to see if the path you created will go through it.
If you find it, cover the exposed part of the board with some tape, or find another path between the two components.
The uneven running stitch is the same as the running stitch, except that each other stitch is shorter than the other stitch.
When I want to minimize the amount of lead wires exposed on one side, I find it useful in wearable electronics.
This side is usually the inside of clothes or accessories that touch the skin.
If you are working on some fabric of thickness, such as felt, when you do a shorter stitch, simply pick up the top of the fabric and the exposure can be minimized further.
Poke the needle from the front and stitch the first time from the back.
Pass through the top of the felt to form shorter stitches.
Pick up the top if it feels.
View from the back to show how the thread does not fully penetrate to the back.
Wear a needle with a guide wire and tie the end.
Using uneven running traces, the track between the ground card and the switch is first stitched.
This is done by crossing the lead of the switch and aligning the drawn line with the ground.
Complete with at least 3 stitches through the snap hole.
The rest of the traces use uneven running needles.
Finish and tie all the marks on the back.
Stitch the other side of the switch to the pin 2 snap.
Sewing LED power supply (+)to pin 3 snap. Sewing LED floor (-)to ground snap.
The circuit is ready to power on and move!
It\'s time to sew a pocket for your battery.
Basting stitches will also come out and will be replaced by running stitches to enhance the stitching connection.
You are now ready to supply mobile power to your project.
To do this, LiPo batteries need a place to complete the project.
A simple pocket is perfect for holding it comfortably in place and can be removed when you need to clean the attachment.
Cut a rectangular felt to measure 2. 5\" x 2. 25\".
The edges should be measured.
5 \"past the edge of the battery on three sides.
Put the battery in place and put the fabric on it.
Smooth pockets on the side of the battery and pin, where they hit the fabric.
If the two corners start a little puc.
So you know how comfortable you are to make your pocket and put the battery inside while you sew.
Stitch your pocket with basting stitching, and when you go, smooth the two puc in the corner.
For wristband closure, apply some Fabri-
Tac to two velcro that match the width of the strap.
Place two things where the straps overlap.
Now, for the final game!
So far, you have done a lot of things that are suitable, and this is a good habit when creating wearable devices.
Turn on the LilyPad USB and plug in the battery.
How do you feel?
Make sure to take photos and share them below!
Push the power switch on the LilyPad USB to on.
The LED flashes twice if everything is fine and then continues to work.
This indicates that the sketch is running and is ready to receive highfives.
Now is the time to test the stitching circuit, and the time to test how well the switch does in capturing the high levelfives.
Find someone and give them a highfive.
Is the LED off?
If so, it\'s a good sign.
If not, try high-fiving again.
Mitt calculates the number of times the switch turns off five times and then starts counting again.
Every five highs.
The LED will turn on and tell you how much you have collected.
Don\'t worry if you have a problem!
Trouble shooting is an important part of building electronic circuits.
After the motherboard is turned on, the boot troubleshoot will not flash. -
Is the program uploaded correctly?
Check the Arduino IDE to see if an error has been received. -
Is the direction of the LED seam correct?
Even if you double check the polarity of the LED, they are sometimes reversed.
Look at the LED grounding (-)
LilyPad connected to the ground (-)and power (+)to power (+).
The LED is turned on too early or behaves unstable. -
Look for a short distance between the power of the LED and the ground. -
Test the switch in Arduino IDE using Serial. println()
Print the status of the switch in the serial window.
Watch the switch status print out to see if the switch is pressed without giving a highfive.
Is something not working yet? Don\'t panic!
In the comments below, let me know what problem you have and we will work it out together.
Basting stitch is a temporary stitch that is used to hold things in the right place until you know they are in the place you like.
At this point, it\'s time to remove the basting stitches and replace them with something stronger --
Run the needle.
Slide on the glove and test the fit of the switch again.
If you need to make the strap bigger or smaller, the strap ends on the back of your hand and takes out all the basting needles before you start sewing.
After all the Basting stitches are taken out, put the overlapping end of the switch belt on the right side (smaller)
Or left (larger)
The amount you need to adjust.
If everything fits GreatThread, use a positive thread pin of 18.
Start continuous stitching along the edge of the switch.
Be careful not to pierce the basting stitching, which makes it harder to remove them.
Knot and cut when you run out of line.
After you have replaced all the basting needles, grab a pair of scissors and cut a basting needle.
Start pulling out the basting stitching with your finger or the blunt end of the slit Ripper.
Loose stitching will come out easily.
Continue to remove them until the gloves are stitched for free.
You\'re here right away!
Replace the basting stitching around the pocket.
The soft circuit uses non-insulated conductive materials.
That\'s why when you finish making the circuit, sometimes it\'s better to cover it to prevent the shorts and help prevent it from aging over time.
There are several ways you can do this.
In this step, I introduce three different ways to protect the soft circuit and two different ways to diffuse the LED.
You will follow one step. by-
I used some different methods.
When making a garment, the fusible interface is usually used as the structure of the collar and button meal pad.
It has many weights that can be woven (stretchy! ), woven or non-woven.
Because it\'s iron.
On the material, it can be found in any fabric store, which provides a convenient way to mask the exposed circuit.
To use it, first identify the sides with the adhesive.
This is usually the rough side of the feeling.
Draw and cut out a shape that will cover the conductive material you want to protect.
Sometimes the interface is translucent and you can see the whole circuit, so you don\'t have to guess the size and shape of the lid.
If you can\'t see it, cut it into strips and build it while you\'re working.
There are many different kinds of fabric coatings to try.
For this project, I chose the one you can squeeze out of the tube.
This is sometimes called \"fluffy\" or \"3D\" fabric paint.
The apply bottle is perfect for covering a seam line, which is why it is a great choice for this project.
The hot \"n\" key is the material I like to use when making prototypes and comes in handy when covering wearable electronics. It\'s a hot-
Can be ironed to the melt adhesive film on the fabric you want to become iron-on itself.
One side is paper and the other is adhesive.
Before using it, you need to identify the shiny adhesive surface.
Heat the iron to the Mediterraneanhigh heat.
Place the adhesive sideways to the fabric you want to make ironon.
Put the hot iron on the paper and heat it.
Stay there for a second, then slowly move into the next area.
Apply enough heat until the adhesive is glued to the fabric and then let it cool completely.
You have iron now. on fabric!
When you are ready to use it, simply peel the paper backing off, side down the fabric adhesive and iron it down.
This paper helps to draw the design before cutting the shape and ironing.
Now that three methods have been introduced that can easily cover exposed circuits, let\'s apply these two methods to Hi-5 Collector.
Over time, covering the wires will protect them from shorts, wear and general weathering.
What material you choose to cover your traces will determine what level of protection your circuit will have in these three departments.
Your material selection will also affect: how the fabric curtain after the thickness circuit of the final project covers the overall aesthetics of the project waterproof I chose fabric paint for this project because it is light weight, the application bottle makes it very easy to apply to a single stitch.
Blue and red are my favorite color combinations, so the fact that red attracts me too.
Remove the microcontrollers and batteries so they don\'t get in the way.
It helps to start the flow of paint on another piece of fabric.
It may start to flow too fast and surprise you, which leads to ugly spots at the beginning of a line.
Pick up the fabric paint and start drawing every trace to completely cover the circuit.
You have now covered the front part of the circuit, but when using the wire guide, you also need to solve the rear part of the circuit that the stitches may pass through.
At this point, the knot has been covered with glue, but if any stitches break on the other side, you may need to cover them.
If it covers a small amount, you can cover the remaining circuit with glue, but we also want the inside to touch the part of the skin and feel soft.
Ironing on the fabric layer protects any exposed line and gives a soft and even feel when in contact with the skin.
Hit some hot \"n\" keys on a felt.
If you would like specific instructions on how to do this, please go back to the covering circuit: Iron-
Fabric steps for this lesson.
Turn over the project.
Tracking the shape of the ladder (
Where is the circuit seam)
Cut it off on paper.
You have a ladder iron right now. on patch!
Peel off the paper backing on the ladder and stick it to the back of the circuit.
Ironing the patch with an iron set to medhigh heat. Use the iron-
Cover the remaining exposed threads on the fabric.
It\'s fun to use LEDs, but sometimes you want them to go beyond the angle of light.
To eliminate the hard shadows and lines produced by the LED, you can spread it.
Diffusion is achieved by placing the material on the top of the LED, which spreads and softens the light and transfers the light from the point of light to the area that illuminates the larger surface.
You can use many materials such as silk, acrylic and flexible polymers.
I will show you how to use two different materials to spread the LED and you can get both from the local craft store.
Polyester filling is also known as poly
Fil or Polyester filler.
This is the soft fluffy material you use to make pillows and plush animals.
You can also use the batting, a sublime sheet made of polyester or cotton fibers pressed together and wrapped together.
The punching board is usually used for quilting and interior decoration, but can also be opened for diffusion.
If you put a layer of Polyester filler on the LED, it will be amazing in the diffusion department.
Its softness also makes it a perfect choice for wearable items.
If spread is filled with polyester, complete with a small piece of white fabric.
Cut the shape suitable to cover the filling amount of LED.
Use straight seams around the edges of the fabric to create soft bubbles.
To clean up the appearance of the fabric edge, cut a circle of felt and glue covering the original edge and seam line.
LED without diffusion.
Poly filled LED.
Hot glue using hot glue is my favorite, yes, it is cunning, cheap and can be messy.
But when you\'re doing something that\'s not a product, it\'s probably exactly what you need.
This is the method I have chosen for the final project and will teach you how to do it in the next steps.
LED without diffusion.
LED with hot glue.
To spread the LED with hot glue, you make a lens that is placed on the top.
There are several different ways to make this lens.
You can make a separate lens and connect to the LED later, or you can stick the glue directly to the board of the LED.
I will show you how to make a separate lens attached to the LED.
You can heat the glue on the LED if you want, but if I need to remove it later, I find it easier to connect if it is made separately.
Put your hot glue in
Put some parchment on top of the LED.
Cover the entire LED when your glue gun is hot, all the way through the edge.
Make multiple lenses based on size and shape.
After the hot glue is hardened, the design is peeled off from the parchment paper.
Try different sizes and choose what you like.
You want a little more than the LED outer edge.
When you put the hot glue lens on the top of the LED, you will notice a gap between it and the felt.
This is easy to fix by hot bonding on the LED board, thus creating a wall for the lens.
Heat the hot glue gun and apply a layer of glue to the felt around the cardboard.
One layer should be done.
Once the glue is hardened, apply a thin layer of hot glue.
Put the lens on the wall and hold it down until it becomes hard.
The edges of the lens look a bit rough.
To clean them up, cut an oval felt ring of the same size as the lens.
Apply for some Fabri-
Tac to the back, press in place.
This will bring a more perfect look to the LED and hot glue lens.
After a step of progress, remember to test all the time!
Turn on the LilyPad USB and plug in the battery.
Wear gloves and turn on the power switch. Give some high-
Five tests to see if everything is still working.
Is it not working properly?
Try these things first: Check if the LilyPad USB is stuck on the correct pin.
Charge the battery connect the motherboard to the Arduino IDE and open the serial window to see if the switch is off when you give high powerfive.
Any questions?
Comment below, let\'s solve it together!
Congrats!
Your Hi. -it\'s officially over.
5 collectors, now you can go out and start hifives [
Insert the party popper emoji here].
I hope you enjoyed the project very much.
Now you can program for Arduino compatible boards, sew running pins, and design soft switches for a variety of fun actions.
If you like this project, please check out more in my free wearable electronics course as well as courses like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, internet of things and more!
Show you done Hi
5 collectors below!
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