The purpose of this Instructure is to summarize my method of making diy D & D game tokens. As a new father and avid player, I live in a small apartment with my wife and daughter and I am looking for an alternative that is cheaper and saves space than a traditional miniatures model. I stumbled across a paper-based micro-site and was inspired. I left some shrinking dink movies in an old art project and decided to give it a try. You probably don\'t have much to make these yourself except shrink film. I will start with the art supplies I use to complete this project. The first is the film. As far as I know, there are two manufacturers of shrink film. You can buy Grafix from Amazon and some art stores. From transparent to matte and frosted, they have quite a few options for finishes. I haven\'t tried the brand yet, but I plan to try it on the next number. The other option and the one I use for this Instructure is Shrinky Dink. I picked it up at the local Michaels. Shrinky Dink also has a couple of different finishes and for this project I used Ruff n\' Ready which has a rough frosted texture that works well for the color. Both brands offer inkjet printing options, which I think will save a lot of time and effort, but I haven\'t tried it yet and I have plans as well. Note on clear options, the frosted ruff and ready options I use are translucent even after baking. Clear options look like stained glass. So keep this in mind when buying shrink film. This transparency can be very effective for glue-like cubes, invisible stalkers, oozes, etc. I draw with my favorite mechanical pencil. There\'s nothing better than basic. 5mm. I used the black Faber. Castel Pitt pen. XS for face and other super details, and S for most other things. As for the color of the artwork, I went with the mark. In the previous picture, I used a very good primacolor pencil. But I noticed that I had to be careful with the outline. The colored pencil has the tendency to cover the outline. I would like to use the mark already available at home, leftovers from the old university art class, but I don\'t have enough color options. So I went out and got some super tips for the Crayola. These are washable water. based type. These actually work well. Since they are based on the water on the plastic surface, the drying speed is not fast, so I can do some mixing. Also, if you are not happy with the color, just need a wet cotton ball and you can erase and start again. The tone of the flesh is not so good, so I am for this Faber- Meat tones of Castel What I rely most on for cutting is the pad knife. It\'s more than most X- Acto blades make it easier to pass through plastic. More than Cooper Tool scissors work well on the curve. Find or draw your work. I personally started with Deviantart. com . I especially like Staino, he has a nice clean art style and his character looks good from a distance. But, of course, there are a lot of things available no matter what you like. As long as you don\'t try to make money from these numbers, you should be within the scope of the Creative Commons license, but always respect the artist\'s work you decide on. I decided to go with this necromancer. I think it works best to choose a simple black and white painting. Because the next step is to print him out and trace him to the movie. I would suggest recording this film so that it is easier to keep everything clean and tidy. One thing I like about this step is that it\'s easy to make small changes or exclude some of the artwork you don\'t need. The cheap Crayola mark really belongs to themselves. They mix well. The fact that they didn\'t put down a lot of paint worked well. During the baking process, the color is darkened and intensified. I would suggest drawing a halo around the graphics as a guide to cutting. Also, like the dead space between the staff and the robes, I left alone. Small spaces like this are hard to cut off. The plastic is not easy to pass through and it will crack if it is bent too far. Also, it\'s easy to accidentally cross and cut into things you\'re not going to do. This part is very similar to the shrink film of the two brands. Just read the instructions and follow them. This number will bend and roll up during the contraction. Don\'t freak out if you see this, pull this number out. I did it on my first number and I messed up and merged a sword in the wrong place. Once this number stops shrinking, pull it on the baking tray or cardboard it sits on and let it cool before you pick it up. The plastic is still soft and the number may not be flat if you pick it up soon. These are some samples of how much Shrinky Dink brands shrink during processing. The sheets are about 5x8. The last thing is to order some game stands and put them in. There are some options here.